The Inka (Inca) subdued the inhabitants of this region in the last quarter of the 15th century, barely 50 years before the arrival of Europeans on the Altiplano. In the 17th century, Spanish chroniclers reported that "Aymara" textiles were woven by Uruqilla subjects, or slaves. Aymara warlords employed master weavers who were descendants of the pre-Aymara, prehistoric Uruqilla to provide them with some of the most paramount textiles ever woven in the Andes. TM13054 is an example of that tradition. This special lot consists of an incredible indigenous Native American hand-woven, warp-faced man's poncho from western Pacajes Province.
The textile represents a masterpiece of the tribal textile arts. A primitive, provincial ground loom served in its creation. The solid black field supports six striped bands and is surrounded by thick fringe in the form of a finely and separately-woven ribbon sewn to the periphery.
The colors include tones that are normally associated with aniline dyes, however, none of these show fading of any kind, a characteristic of most natural dyes. Several colors are certainly of natural-dye origin including burgundy red, purple and probably sea green and light pink. A curious rust orange dye actually occurs on textiles reportedly of early to mid-19th century age. We don´t know the origin of that dye but even if it is not natural, the mordants employed in setting the color were among the best ever used. The two-ply yarns represent those often called "spun under water" by traditional Andean weavers.
These are extremely finely spun fibers that were wetted and polished with metal pins in a special process called " kutintaña " in Aymara. This produced an incredibly fine and even yarn called ch´anka tukiya:ntata. Use of these yarns was regionally limited and were only utilized for the most special and prestigious of native textiles; producing them required an enormous amount of intensive labor and also required that the balls of stretched, spun fibers remain wrapped for a minimum of three months prior to weaving in order to ensure that the yarn would have no irregular lumps or imperfections whatsoever.
All of the field yarns are of this material; they are handspun (using primitive drop spindles) from fine alpaca wool with a minor amount of mixed Merino sheep wool (the finest ovine wool in the world). The field yarns are overdyed to produce a solid black color with no variation. Some of the dyed yarns, which include both Merino sheep and alpaca wool, were also processed by this labor-intensive method. About half of the dyed yarns, however, are of single-ply Merino sheep wool of homespun (primitive spinning wheel) origin. We suspect that these yarns originated in Juli, Perú where aniline dyes may have been introduced as early as around 1880.
Jesuit workshops in Juli produced expensive yarns and textiles ultimately distributed throughout the southern Andes from Colonial times until shortly after the turn-of-the-19th century. Curiously, the fringe yarns are not of ch´anka tukiyayañi nor of single-ply Juli-style fibers.
Instead, they are reverse-spun, two-ply (S-spun, Z-plied) yarns, which probably had spiritual significance; some are actually double-plied. Thus, they are thicker (although still very fine) and add to the dense, brimming appearance of the periphery. Reverse-spun yarns (lluq´i) are also found in the lateral black bands, which traditionally were added as spiritual protection for the wearer against negative energies. These are readily apparent in the detailed, all-black photo (slightly lightened).It is difficult to convey the quality of weaving with words and photos, as it is with many of our higher priced textiles. Apart from the incredible evenness and flatness of the weave, there are some 80 warps per inch and 16.5 wefts per inch in the field; the striped bands have about 96 warps per inch. Imagine, this is an adult-sized poncho with almost 4 million warp/weft intersections - each carefully tightened with a bone awl! The special materials, fringe, and expert craftsmanship indicate that TM13054 served an esteemed Aymara Indian leader as a distinguished emblem of his office and social status. This is truly an amazing, master-woven textile that is in excellent condition and displays magnificently. It falls sublimely over a mannequin or poncho stand as evidenced by our photos. This is a fairly rare opportunity to acquire an Andean textile of this quality.
Please refer to the ANDESAMAZON "DATING" TERMS. Materials: The warp includes traditional two-ply (Z-spun, S-plied) yarn and consists of specially-spun (see Background and Description, above) alpaca and Merino sheep wool.
Some colored warp yarns are fine, single-ply yarns that are typical of Andean homespun fibers, although quite rare. The weft is fine, two-ply black alpaca wool.
Approximate Size: 59 inches by 49 ½-inches, excluding 1 1/2-inch fringe. Overall, this historic poncho is in fabulous condition. The original center seam is intact and perfect. The neck opening is perfect.The thick fringe and woven edge ribbon are practically perfect. There are half a dozen small spots with excellent restoration. All but one are found on a single corner of the poncho. All but two are found in the black field and are difficult to see. The largest measures 1-inch by 1 ¾-inches. There are numerous small, light stains, probably from ceremonial blessings; all are visible in the photos (a detailed photo illustrates the most apparent blemish). These are relatively minor and represent limited damage compared to the overall condition and aesthetic beauty of the textile.
Please refer to the photos and the ANDESAMAZON TEXTILE "CONDITION" TERMS. Currently, regular air-and-ground service to the U.
Requires 1 to 4 weeks depending on periodic delays in Miami due to policy changes with Homeland Security, TSA, U. We are not in proximity to the only open post office. AND INCLUDE TRACKING NUMBERS FOR YOUR CONVENIENCE.We promise to continue providing detailed and accurate information related to age, origin, condition and descriptions as we have for the past 20 years. PREHISTORIC, PRE-COLUMBIAN, ANCIENT = Before around A. 19th CENTURY = 1800 to 1899. TURN-OF-THE-19TH-CENTURY = 1890 to 1910. EARLY-20TH CENTURY = 1900 to 1933.
MID-20TH CENTURY = 1934 to 1966. LATE-20TH CENTURY = 1967 to 1999.TURN-OF-THE-20TH-CENTURY = 1995 to 2005. EARLY-21ST CENTURY = 2000 to Present. ANTIQUE = Over 50 years old. VINTAGE = Over 30 years old.
CONTEMPORARY = Made in the last 5 years. CIRCA = Approximately/around/within a few years of. ANDES AMAZON TEXTILE "CONDITION" TERMS. Terms used to describe the physical condition of textiles can be subjective and vary greatly from one observer to another.What some others call "mint" condition, we call "good"; what others call "excellent" condition, we call fair. Following are explanations of the terms we use. Unused -- as if recently removed from the loom. No wear or patina of any kind.
These textiles may have "nubs" or even loose, uncut threads from the weaving process. EXCELLENT = Usually only lightly used, often guarded or stored for many years. There may be extremely light wear, patina and sheen from use. There may also be nearly undetectable light staining or soiling from use.The colors may have muted ever so slightly due to age or exposure, often improving the beauty of a textile. VERY GOOD = Usually lightly or only periodically used. The surface may be very lightly but evenly worn.
There are no tears or distracting holes. There may be minimal surface discoloration.
Vintage textiles may have lightly darkened yarn from use and age (staining and soiling). Overall, the textile will be in outstanding condition and at a displayable distance will appear perfect.
GOOD = Usually moderately to well-used. There may be light to medium staining, isolated or throughout.
Some parts of the textile may be worn or have very small holes, occasionally exposing hidden thread yarns. Edges may be lightly frayed. Surface discoloration due to age and exposure is common but often improving the appearance of a textile. There may be minor, light or isolated, dye run. Damage will not distract significantly from the textile when displayed.FAIR = Either well-used or moderately abused. Extensive wear is common as is some "bleeding" or dye run. In most 20th century cases, the colors have considerably faded. Sections of fringe or tassels may be missing. Textiles may be in otherwise excellent condition but with a single isolated sector of damage, that greatly reduces its aesthetic appeal. Most vintage tribal textiles on the market are in FAIR TO GOOD condition. POOR = Showing evidence of extreme usage and damage.
These textiles do not display well and are primarily useful as study specimens or examples of sometimes very rare textiles. We believe the world deserves improving.
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"Native" groups, also known as tribal folk, original residents, indigenous people, aboriginals, First Nations, traditional ethnicities, autochthonous societies, autochthonal cultures, et. Dominated human existence until recently. At some point, of course, we all shared common ancestors. Regardless of current culture, creed or color. Regrettably, however, in the past 500 years or so, thousands of unique tribal groups disappeared due to misunderstanding and impudence.
Uncontrolled aspects of colonialism, ethnocentrism, racism and politicization led to the direct and circuitous destruction of myriad native groups, each representing a valuable resource for our planet. Over 6000 of the nearly 7000 languages currently spoken face danger of extinction. The vast majority of those constitute ethnic indigenous tongues. We believe in cherishing and carefully supporting the very few "Native" groups that remain on earth, even while standing on the brink of losing them.
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For more than a quarter century, the professional interests of those behind ANDESAMAZON remain dedicated to documenting "traditional" South American indigenous cultures, especially through their material culture. Our field studies lead us to some of the most remote people on the continent.
Through the years, we witnessed certain Native Americans existing nearly exactly as their ancestors did in prehistoric times. And others jumping from 18th century existence to 21st century reality in the blink of an eye. The benefits of our ethnographic investigations manifest as valuable data related to linguistics, cultural history, ethno-environmental relationships, socio-cultural organization, cosmology, mythology, spirituality and of course, material culture.
Our holistic approach to understanding the past through material arts contributes authentic information related to the people who created those pieces. Not only can beautiful and interesting objects enhance ones´ personal environment, but they also provide invaluable knowledge regarding different ideologies, unique ways of life and past or nearly extinct traditions.ANDESAMAZON suggests sharing with companions, friends and especially children, whatever understanding, knowledge and insights you obtain from our objects. In this small way, we feel inspired in preserving something of native cultures and making the world a better place. Thank you for working with us. THANK YOU FOR YOUR INTEREST AND SUPPORT. This item is in the category "Antiques\Ethnographic\Native American". The seller is "andesamazon" and is located in this country: BO. This item can be shipped worldwide.